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Everest Base Camp Trek – Day 5: Tengboche to Dingboche & Day 6: Dingboche to Thukla


Tengboche (3,860 m) to Dingboche (4,410 m): 5-6 hrs

I woke up feeling a little cloudy. But husband felt fine, he left the room early to catch the sunrise. Too bad it was a cloudy day.Tengboche monastery early morning shot

Tengboche monastery early morning shot

In the distance we saw our porters heading towards the tea-house. It turns out that porters stay in a porter house. They don’t sleep in the tea-houses. I won’t lie, I had a slight feeling of guilt every time I saw them carrying our bags. We were never properly introduced to our porter and only managed to catch Anil’s name. I asked our other porter his name but he was so soft spoken. Even after several tries I still couldn’t catch his name.

By the time we started hiking our porters were long gone. We wouldn’t see them again until lunch time. We walked passed some villages. They used yak dung to fuel the fire for the wood stove. We saw them drying on the side of giant boulders. The dried dung was stacked up like bricks along the trail. Life in the mountains is really hard.

We had a quick lunch at Pangboche. My sister and I had veg rara (instant noodles) again. As expected we saw , our porters.  They were relaxing outside, despite having to carry so much weight, the seem so happy and chill. On the other hand, there we were struggling to make our way to the bathroom, coughing and sniffling. The only thing I was carrying in my bag was 1 litre of water and some mints.

We finished our lunch, and at our pace it was still a long walk to Dingboche. I found myself in a very uncomfortable position, I really had to pee. I told the guide that I had to go to the washroom . He pointed in the distance vaguely. There was nothing but boulders and shrubs. I held it in, to a point were I thought I would injure myself. Finally I gave in and picked a boulder. I had my husband stand guard on one side, and the cold wind on the other. The guide asked what was happening, and said that it was the wrong spot to use. Seriously!

After that I was able to enjoy the walk. We reached a giant stupa standing guard over Dingboche. From there I could see Good Luck tea-house, our stop for the day. We had a room upstairs, and across the hallway 2 western toilets, one flushed and one sort of flushed. There was a sink right outside but no running water. We used our hand sanitizer generously.

The tea-house did have 2 large buckets of water with a tap right outside the downstairs dining hall. We used this to fill our hydration packs, the next day I had gritty water. Lesson for the day, sometimes it’s worth buying bottled water.

Dingboche 4410m to Thukla 4620m: 2 hrs

Our guide could see that the altitude was taking a toll on us. So he decided that we should hike to Thukla instead of taking a rest day. This would cut our distance for the following day. It was an excellent idea. For the first time in our trek we took our time getting ready. All the big groups had already left by the time we got started.

Although, I could barely talk or breathe through my nose, this was still my favourite day of hiking. We were surrounded by gorgeous snow-capped mountains. I will never get used to the sight of clouds hanging below the mountains.

We moved slowly through the landscape, soaking in the blue skies and crispy mountains. The path was flat and easy.  I knew I would miss days like these once I get back home.

Our guide and porters resting on route.

Our guide and porters resting on route.

We moved slowly down a rocky path to cross a small wooden bridge over the river. Just up the hill was Thukla. I made my way slowly up the rocks refusing to look up. I like to surprise myself, by only looking up once I reach the top. It’s a little game I like to play.

We made it to Yak Lodge tea-house. Lunch and dinner would be veg rara again. My throat was really bothering me. Every time I tried to speak I would start hacking and coughing. We ordered a large thermos of hot water to bring to our room. By the end of the day we had 3 large thermos’. At least I was keeping hydrated.

By night time the struggle was real. I joined my sister in the diarrhea club. To top that our tea-house only had two squatting toilets, and only had liquids were making it down the pipe. There was also no running water, just a bucket with a tap. I spent most of the night squatting in the gross cold toilet. Eventually even the water in the bucket froze over.

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